With Oklahoma City's exciting rebirth comes a renewed emphasis on food―in this case, locally grown meats.

Red Primesteak

What's Oklahoma cuisine? Plunging a fork into a tender dry-aged strip steak―crusted with brown sugar and sea salt, topped with a homemade Worcestershire sauce―we begin to find out. "Texas has done a good job with food identity," says Keith Paul, who owns Red PrimeSteak in Oklahoma City with wife Heather. "I don't think ours is established yet―we're moving toward local ingredients with elements of American Indian and Mexican Indian. We're a blank slate." The slate-to-plate translation works here. Red Prime's Buffalo Sloppy Joe, braised for five hours, comes with tart pickle relish on a buttermilk biscuit, a tribute to the childhood favorite. The sides―Green-Chile Mac, smoked bacon creamed corn, roasted sunchokes―offer innate richness. But it's the beef that calls to us: several 40-day, dry-aged selections, a tender Kobe skirt steak, porterhouse for two (carved tableside), and popular fillets. The 13 crust and sauce choices read like a wine list. "The Coffee Crust is great with béarnaise," suggests Heather. "Or Guajillo Chile Crust―earthy and chocolaty―goes well with Brandy-Mushroom Sauce." Top it off with shortcake garnished with a chicken-fried strawberry, and you're on to something. Taste, Oklahoma style.

504 North Broadway; (405) 232-2626. Hours: 4:30-11 p.m. daily. Entrées start at $21. Keith and Heather's other eateries include Cheever's Café (contemporary comfort food), Iron Starr Urban BBQ, and newly opened Market C (trendy takeout).

"Red PrimeSteak" is from the August 2008 issue of Southern Living. Because prices, dates, and other specifics are subject to change, please check all information to make sure it's still current before making your travel plans.