And this is how it happens in the Delta. You come with your intended itinerary of juke joints, cafes, and historical markers, distilled from tens of online lists and email crowdsourcing, but as you drive down Highway 61, you know there’s more beyond that endless horizon of cotton fields, pecan groves, and the cypress-filled creeks. And then you meet a history professor at a backyard catfish fry. Although he’s driven in from Dallas, the professor’s family happens to be from Anguilla, Mississippi, and he begins to tell you of mansion ruins, cemeteries, a spattering of old buildings on the side of the road known as Nitta Yuma. If you are me and our Homes Editor Zoe Gowen, on a split-decision journey to the Delta Hot Tamale Festival in Greenville, you pull up a Google Map and start plotting your next day’s adventure. This is what we found.