How to Make It
Position a rack in the center and heat the oven to 450°F. Put the butter in a 9-inch-square baking dish and place in the oven to melt, about 5 minutes.
While the butter melts, whisk together the flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt in a large bowl. Make a well in the center, pour in the milk, and stir with a fork only until the dry ingredients are moist. The dough will be soft and sticky.
Pour the dough onto a lightly floured surface. Gently knead about 10 turns, adding no more flour than is needed to keep it from sticking to your hands. Pat into a long, narrow rectangle that’s about 1/2 inch thick. Cut the dough into 12 equal strips with a pizza cutter or sharp knife dipped in flour.
Remove the dish from the oven. Working with one at a time, transfer the strips to the baking dish and turn to coat in butter. Nest the strips snuggly together in rows.
Bake until the strips are puffed and golden, about 20 minutes. Let stand 2 to 3 minutes. Serve hot.