The Complete Guide To Camellias

The South is the heart of camellia country. Indeed, common camellia (Camellia japonica) is even Alabama's state flower. Although it seems these plants, which are so well suited to our area, must have been born here, they actually hail from eastern and southern Asia. These lovely evergreen shrubs and trees are members of the tea family, Theaceae, and bring blooms to our gardens during the cold months. More than 3,000 named kinds of camellias exist in a remarkable range of colors, forms, and sizes. They are not browsed by deer, another plus point for life outdoors in the South. This beautiful, flowering shrub is a Southern favorite because it loves the Southern climate and has a long blooming season. Read on for a few top tips on planting and tending camellias in your area.

Plant Attributes

Common Name	Camellia
Botanical Name	Camellia spp.
Family	Theaceae
Plant Type	Perennial, tree, shrub
Mature Size	6–14 ft. tall, 5–7 ft. wide
Sun Exposure:	Partial, full shade
Soil Type	Organically rich, well-drained
Soil pH	Acidic, neutral
Bloom Time	Winter, spring
Flower Color	Red, pink, white, yellow
Hardiness Zones	USDA Zones 7–9
Native Area	Asia

Camellia Care

When it comes to planting, spring or fall is fine for most areas. Spring is better in the Upper South, where the root system needs time to get established before the onset of cold weather. Be sure to mulch thoroughly to keep roots cool and the soil moist. Regular watering is critical during the first year. Water thoroughly to moisten the entire root ball; then let the top of the root ball go slightly dry before the next watering.

Light

In general, camellias grow and bloom better in light, partial shade, with shelter from hot afternoon sun. This is especially true for young plants, which thrive under the shade of tall trees or when grown on the north side of a house. As they grow larger and their thick canopy of leaves shades and cools their roots, they gradually will accept more sun. Shade provided in winter reduces cold damage in the Upper South.

Soil

Camellias grow best in organically rich, well-drained, slightly acidic soils. Add organic matter if needed to improve soil texture or drainage. This plant does not tolerate alkaline soils, which can lead to low iron uptake and yellowing leaves. If you know your soil is alkaline, adding peat moss during planting can help make the soil more acidic. Have your soil tested by your local extension office and follow any recommendations for reducing the pH of your soil.

Water

Established plants (over three years old, vigorous, and shading their own roots) get by with little supplemental water. If you do water them, make sure the soil is well drained.

Temperature And Humidity

Camellias prefer growing in warm, humid areas located in USDA zones 7 to 9. Excessive or prolonged cold can cause bud drop in winter-blooming types. Shelter them from strong winds, particularly in the Upper South or near the coast. They do not tolerate salt spray, so the coast is not ideal for camellia planting.

Fertilizer

Feed with an acid-forming azalea or camellia fertilizer in spring, after the flowers have dropped; fertilize again in the midsummer if growth seems sluggish or foliage looks sparse and begins to lose its deep green color. Apply at the rate recommended on the label. Don't overdo it, as plants grown in fertile soil need little fertilizer―and never feed plants that are sick or distressed.

Types of Camellias

If you live in the Upper or Tropical South and have problems growing camellias, take heart: You can now enjoy hybrids that flourish in the extremes of weather found in both regions.

A number of species, most notably the C. oleifera, produce hybrids that withstand temperatures as low as -15°F with little or no damage provided they have some shelter from winter sun and wind. Selections include 'Polar Ice' and 'Snow Flurry,' with white anemone-form blossoms; 'Winter's Charm,' pink peony form; 'Winter's Dream,' semidouble pink blooms; 'Winter's Fire,' with semidouble, reddish pink flowers in early winter; 'Winter's Star,' lavender-pink single blooms; 'Winter's Waterlily,' white winter double. C. japonica also has an April series of hardy camellias, named for the time they typically bloom in the cooler, northern part of their range. These include 'April Blush,' 'April Dawn,' 'April Remembered,' 'April Rose,' 'April Snow,' and 'April Tryst.'

These japonicas perform well in the Tropical South as far as Fort Myers and West Palm Beach in Florida: 'Alba Plena,' 'Debutante,' 'Gigantea,' 'Lady Clare,' 'Mathotiana,' 'Professor Charles S. Sargent,' and 'Red Giant.' You can even try them in Miami, though you'll have to grow them in pots because of the alkaline soil there.

If you'd like to think outside the seasonal box, try out fall-blooming camellias, also known as Sasanqua camellias (C. sasanqua). These species grow more compactly than common camellias, reaching about 10-12 feet tall and wide at maturity. They produce beautiful, glossy, green foliage and big blooms just as the rest of the garden is settling in for a long winter's nap.

No matter the camellia you choose, there's a shrub or two that's perfect for your garden. With a little care and attention, you'll have plenty of bright blooms adding cheer to your space during the cooler months.

Pruning

Prune soon after blooming has ended. Remove dead or weak wood; thin out growth when it is so dense that flowers have no room to open properly. Shorten lower branches to encourage upright growth; cut back top growth to make lanky shrubs bushier. When pruning, cut just above a scar that marks the end of the previous year's growth (often a slightly thickened, somewhat rough area where bark texture and color change slightly). Making your cuts just above this point usually forces three or four dominant buds into growth.

Propagating Camellias

Like many woody shrubs, camellias can be propagated by taking stem cuttings. Wait until late spring or early summer after flowering is over and new growth has begun to mature, and then follow these steps:

1. Cut a fresh stem five or six leaf nodes from the tip.
2. Cut the stem into 4-inch sections, with two sets of leaves on each section. Remove the bottom set of leaves
3. Dip the tip of each cutting into rooting hormone powder.
4. Insert each cutting into a 4-inch pot filled with damp, lightweight potting soil.
5. Cover each cutting with a clear, plastic bag, and place cuttings in a warm spot in bright, indirect light.
6. Moisten soil when it begins to dry out. Your new camellias will be ready to transplant once roots have mostly filled the pot. Depending on the time of year, you can also move your cuttings into larger pots and continue to grow to a more substantial size before transplanting.

How To Grow Camellias From Seed

Camellias do not come true from seed, meaning that the resulting seedling often looks different from the parent plant. According to the American Camellia Society, superior camellias are rarely produced from seed. If you'd like to try growing one, though, harvest seeds when pods begin to crack slightly. Soak in water for 12 hours to aid in germination. Plant the seeds in a damp, high-quality soil, peat moss, or peat moss and sand mixture. Keep the soil damp and seeds will germinate in one month (results are best if seeds are planted immediately after harvesting). After germination, seedlings can be planted outdoors.

Potting And Repotting Camellias

Camellias are outstanding container plants whether you grow them outdoors on a terrace or indoors in a cool greenhouse. As a general rule, plant gallon-size camellias in 12- to 14-inch-diameter containers, and 5-gallon ones in 16- to 18-inch containers. Fill the container with a potting mix containing 50 percent or more organic material. Make sure the container has a generous drainage hole. For more information, check out 15 Things All Camellia Enthusiasts Need To Know.

Overwintering

To promote winter hardiness in camellias, avoid fertilizing or pruning in the fall, which can cause the plant to put out tender new growth just as temperatures are dropping. If you live in the Upper South, plant in a spot that is sheltered from strong winds. Camellias appreciate a layer of mulch to moderate soil temperature and moisture. While these plants can withstand temperatures down to 0, late-blooming camellias can lose flowers and buds to a hard freeze.

Common Pests & Plant Diseases

Tea scale is a common pest. These pests look like tiny brown or white specks on leaf undersides; sooty mold grows on the honeydew they secrete. Infested leaves turn yellow and drop. To treat tea scale, apply horticultural oil or a systemic insecticide such as acephate (Orthene) or dimethoate (Cygon), following label instructions.

Two fungal diseases are common. Camellia petal blight causes flowers to turn brown rapidly, then drop. Sanitation is the best control: pick up and destroy all fallen blossoms as well as infected ones still on the plant. Remove and discard any existing mulch, then replace it with a 1-inch layer of fresh mulch. Camellia leaf gall causes leaves to become distorted, pale, thick, and fleshy; they gradually turn white, then brown, then drop from the plant. The best control is to pick up and destroy affected leaves before they turn white.

How To Get Camellias To Bloom

Bud drop is a frequent complaint. To some extent, this is natural for all camellias (many set more buds than they can open), but it also may be caused by overwatering, summer drought, or sudden freezes. For more information on issues to avoid when tending camellias, check out The Biggest Mistakes To Avoid When Growing Camellias.

Common Problems With Camellias

Scorched or yellowed areas in the center of leaves usually indicate a sunburn. Burnt leaf edges, excessive leaf drop, or corky leaf spots generally point to overfertilizing. Chlorosis (yellow leaves with green veins) results from planting in neutral or alkaline soil; to correct, feed plant with chelated iron and amend soil with sphagnum peat moss and/or garden sulfur to adjust the pH.