The South's Best Apple Pies
Slightly North of Broad; Charleston, SC
Local-before-it-was-cool chef Frank Lee opened his kitchen in 1993 with two goals: use seasonal ingredients and honor Taoism, a philosophy that emphasizes balance. The apple pie pairs sweet Carolina apples with a tangy zip of sour cream. His eggy French pâte sucrée crust is offset with crunchy, toasty walnut strudel. mavericksouthernkitchens.com
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Pie Shop; Atlanta
The state may be known for peaches, but controversial as it may sound, owner Mims Bledsoe believes Georgia apples are required for the ultimate apple pie. The decadent caramel apple pie at this tucked-away spot is made with a mix of unique north Georgia apples including Winesap, Mutsu and Braeburn, which provide tartness, firmness after baking, and depth in flavor. Each apple is quickly stripped of its skin with a sturdy circa-1800s cast-iron peeler; the fruit is heavily doused with clove, and topped with buttery streusel dotted with house-made caramel and touched with just a hint of salt. the-pie-shop.com
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Royers Pie Haven; Round Top, TX
Proprietor/philosopher Bud Royer took a failing chicken-fried steak hovel and transformed it into a funky café serving fresh seafood. People make the drive from Houston or Austin to Round Top (population 90) for Royer’s syllogisms but most importantly, his Texas-proportioned pies that ooze with globs of brown sugar and cream. Not My Mom’s Apple Pie comes from Royer tweaking his family recipe by adding a crunchy pecan-granola topping, which he’s been known to sample for “quality assurance” on the pie’s way out of the oven. royersroundtopcafe.com
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Scratch; Durham, NC
Pastry chef Phoebe Lawless opened this café to focus on what she does best: pie. The apple with benne seed streusel, a toasty and nutty take on a crumb top, makes brilliant use of regional products. The benne (sesame) comes from Charleston, South Carolina, and adds a subtle texture to the firm North Carolina mountain apples, such as Jonathan or Blushing Gold. By using a delicate crumb top and firm apples, “You can taste the nuances of the fruit,” says Lawless. piefantasy.com
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Blue Duck Tavern; Washington, DC
Chef Sebastien Archambault and pastry chef Naomi Gallego rely on a wood-burning oven for most of the upgraded tavern classics served at this restaurant in the Park Hyatt. Texas-born Archambault trained in Paris (under Alain Ducasse), and both locales influenced his 6-inch apple pie. A nod to French pastry, this version of the American classic has a crispy and butter-heavy crust, with a dark caramel and an acidic swirl of Granny Smith apples. Though the award-winning menu changes every six weeks, the pie has remained untouched since its introduction in 2006. blueducktavern.com
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Pie Lab; Greensboro, AL
This lab is dedicated to charity, conversation and fruit fillings: Kelley Whatley’s bakery donates all of its profits to HERO, which coordinates housing and temporary shelters in Hale County, Alabama. Whatley grew up taste-testing pies her grandmother wanted to sell in downtown Birmingham. Inspired, she developed her own gooey apple pie with the crunchy rhythm of a pecan filling and a dollop of juicy cranberry sauce, instantly evoking the holidays. pielab.org
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Pie Kitchen; Louisville, KY
Owner Adam Burckle has a legacy to protect: the hometown ice cream counter. Burckle calls his sweet shop one of the remaining “micro-churns,” and uses only regional dairy products. The apple pie here benefits from his dedication to homespun desserts: The Dutch apple streusel has a one-of-a-kind layer of caramel icing on top, mimicking caramel apples and smoothly coating the pie.The kitchen spreads on the hot caramel, gushing from a steam kettle, and it’s always made from scratch. piekitchen.com