Your locks might not bounce for more reasons than you think.

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While there’s plenty of products and flat irons out there to help many achieve pin-straight texture, there are those who already have it and long for waves. It’s still true that you can’t always get what you want, but when it comes to this dilemma, we have better news than Mick Jagger.

Although you might think your hair is just too thin or limp, there are several causes behind hair that can’t hold a curl. Many have a very circular hair shaft, which keeps hair from maintaining any wave (the more flat your hair shaft, the curlier your hair is), while others simply have too healthy of strands for any styling to take (a super smooth shaft is too slippery to style oftentimes).

The best way to combat these issues is to create a textural foundation for a curl or wave to build upon. The ideal situation is hair that isn’t too squeaky clean or had too much conditioner applied before styling. While your hair is still damp, start with a volumizing product like Sachajuan’s Root LiftChristophe Robin’s Instant Volumizing Mist with Rosewater, or R+Co.’s Dallas Thickening Spray.

Next, make sure to add a heat protectant before you start wrapping your locks around the curling iron. Windle and Moodie’s Fortifying Spray is our new favorite because it not only keeps hair protected, but gives it a little grit and texture for curls to hold on to without sacrificing shine or smoothness.

This is the most important step. Once you’ve curled a section of hair, coil it in your hand and gently pin it up so it sets. We suggest using clips that are meant for this kind of job (like these from Y.S. Park) instead of bobby pins that could cause an indentation. Once the curl has cooled, release it and set with hairspray. Reach for Oribe’s Superfine Strong Hairspray when you want touchable hold, but we also recommend their Anti-Humidity Spray for those residing in more extreme Southern climes.

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