Photo: Robbie Caponetto
It sounds like a nice marketing trick. Except there's no trickery. This man is Houston proud. I recommend going in a group because you'll want to graze the menu. I dined alone, and paid my penance by schlepping a shopping bag worth of leftovers back to my hotel room. But it was worth it for the decadent biscuits and chicken gravy, a cast-iron-skillet deconstruction of pot pie piled high with silken chunks of chicken, broccoli, carrots, and translucent onion. The fried whole vermilion snapper (topped with green chili-cilantro chutney, served over garam masala-scented green beans and okra) responsibly—and deliciously—makes use of Gulf bycatch (often called "trash fish"). This is the fish caught when you're actually going after something else, say, shrimp. With Chris' ever-evolving menu, he delivers Houston on plates: traditional, international, inspirational. It's a sense of place in a bite.