Photo: Dan Dry
Edward Lee is known for his antics—off-pitch, late-night karaoke springs to mind. But he checks the nonsense at the door when it comes to his restaurants. And while it would be wrong to say that MilkWood, his newest spot in Louisville, Kentucky's Actors Theatre, plays with a straight face, his approach to layering in the Korean flavors of his Brooklyn, New York, childhood with his reverence for Southern food is no joke. For proof, try his miso-smothered chicken with buttery Carolina rice or the four-napkin pork burger piled with kimchi and cracklins.