Edward Lee is known for his antics—off-pitch, late-night karaoke springs to mind. But he checks the nonsense at the door when it comes to his restaurants. And while it would be wrong to say that MilkWood
, his newest spot in Louisville, Kentucky's Actors Theatre, plays with a straight face, his approach to layering in the Korean flavors of his Brooklyn, New York, childhood with his reverence for Southern food is no joke. For proof, try his miso-smothered chicken with buttery Carolina rice or the four-napkin pork burger piled with kimchi and cracklins.