Fittingly, his tapas-style menu encourages sharing. Bowls of Manila clams and boiled peanuts surrender to a sherry-laced, garlicky broth. Meaty pork ribs, lacquered in Espellette pepper jelly, seem just the thing you'd eat at a 'cue joint in Basque Country. Matt is also no stranger to playing host. At Vin Rouge, the bistro he's co-owned for 10 years, the food industry crowd regularly hunkers down on nights off. But at Mateo, you don't need to know a toque from a tournedo to feel at home.