Understatement is the point. Dishes such as wood-fired pizzas, drippingly messy neckbone-gravy poutine (fries studded with cheese curd), and earthy cauliflower roasted with brown butter demonstrate their low-key prowess of merging classic technique and pitch-perfect ingredients. Even a simple romaine salad feels like an indulgence with its rich pecorino vinaigrette and generous scattering of fried chicken skins instead of croutons. This unlikely East Memphis spot, surrounded by office buildings, strip malls, and chain restaurants, simply turns out soulful food. And these boys have proved that a glorious meal has nothing to do with a tufted dining room and hefty tab.