Head to the beach for breakfast at a Florida classic--The Seahorse, a 67-year-old greasy spoon that's a Pass-a-Grille landmark. Settle into the sand here, or check out Fort DeSoto Park, a family beach with a bike path, dog park, and historic site.
For lunch, head downtown for tropical fare at Tangelo's Grille. Try the Cuban sandwich with black beans and rice.
Spend the afternoon exploring the shops along Central Avenue and the art galleries on Beach Drive. Cherie's Eklektika specializes in irresistible kitsch, from mermaid paraphernalia to windup sushi toys. In addition to the paintings at Trinity Gallery, you may find an original photograph of Marilyn Monroe, a piece of estate jewelry, or a $10 photograph by an unknown artist. Visit one of the city's five museums; our favorite is the Salvador Dalí Museum.
So what's with those women and men in black? They're students at the Aveda Institute St. Petersburg, the best place in town for a splurge on the cheap: a $40 facial, which includes a scalp treatment and a foot massage. You must sign a waiver, because the students are not licensed, but you can't beat an $11 haircut. Call for appointments; (727) 820-3199.