Day 1: Old School Diner
For dinner, stop at the Old School Diner just off Harris Neck Road near Townsend (oldschooldiner.com or 912/832-2136). Chef Jerome (pictured) is a character. You go for the experience, not the food (but the fried shrimp are pretty dynamite). Imagine a juke joint crossed with your favorite country kitchen. The cavernous, maze-like interior has walls covered with photos of everyone who’s eaten there (including Ben Affleck), resulting in a sort of pixilated wallpaper. Fair warning: The waitress will take your photo at the end of your meal.