Blue Levee: Mississippi Comfort Food

Jennifer Davick
Owners John Lewis and Andrea Drummond
In the heart of blues country, Blue Levee restaurant elevates Southern food and serves it with a side of soul.

Like the raspy, whispered tunes of a Mississippi John Hurt album, Blue Levee, a ramshackle restaurant on the shoulders of the state’s namesake river, exudes soul. Not the “Lawd, I’m a-comin’ ” variety. But the tempered kind that lives in every creaky porch on this sacred alluvial plain.

John Lewis, a Rosedale, Mississippi, native son, and his artist wife, Andrea Drummond, originally from nearby Greenville, moved back from Colorado to open this culinary ode to the Delta in an old gas station. A shanty-style screened porch, reminiscent of sharecropper shacks, opens to the dining room plastered with old license plates, where local bands set up.

While you’ll find the staples—notably the Delta’s deep-fried holy trinity: catfish , green tomatoes, and, of course, okra—John earns his chops with an evolving list of specials; for instance, short ribs braised in an herbaceous red wine bath or a tender rack of lamb dressed with an apple cider, ginger, and soy glaze. For diet-busting awesomeness, get the sopaipilla cheesecake, a cinnamon-topped, vanilla cream cheese-filled pastry.

Consider getting your own apron dirty in a cooking class (12 people max) at the Viking Cooking School in nearby Greenwood.

Where to Find It

Blue Levee: 1310 South Main Street, Rosedale, MS 38769; 662/759-6333. Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday-Saturday; reservations recommended. Entrées start at $11; beers are available, but bring your own wine and spirits.

Where it’s located: In Rosedale, at the intersection of State 1 and State 8 in the Mississippi Delta, about an hour from Greenville and Clarksdale, two and a half hours southwest of Memphis

Nearest Interstate: I-55, 72 miles away

The Regulars: Locals sporting “Delta casual” (tailored sundresses and khakis instead of blue jeans) and out-of-town hunters in their deer camp finest (camouflage)

What’s Next Door: Great River Road State Park, between the levee and the river, with great views of the Mighty Mississippi

DownComment IconEmail IconFacebook IconGoogle Plus IconGrid IconInstagram IconLinkedin IconList IconMenu IconMinus IconPinterest IconPlus IconRss IconSave IconSearch IconShare IconShopping Cart IconSpeech BubbleSnapchat IconTumblr IconTwitter IconWhatsapp IconYoutube Icon