At his Ground Zero Blues Club Morgan plays a guitar "Super Chikan" Johnson (left) fashioned from a gasoline can.
Mary Margaret Chambliss
Ground Zero, Morgan's juke joint, pays tribute to the blues as well. Though he may be Mississippi royalty, on this night he is just another happy face dancing on a plank floor. And there's no doubt…he's at home.
Madidi: 164 Delta Avenue, Clarksdale, MS 38614; (662) 627-7770 or www.madidires.com. Delta Blues Museum: 1 Blues Alley; (662) 627-6820 or www.deltabluesmuseum.org. Ground Zero Blues Club: (662) 621-9009 or www.groundzerobluesclub.com.
In His Own Words
Home: "My ancestral home is Charleston, Mississippi [near Clarksdale]. That's where I live on my ranch…. My wife, Myrna, and I were coming down to visit my parents pretty regularly, and we were looking for somewhere to settle. The Mississippi Delta is it for me."
The blues: "People were coming here before we did. Folks would travel from all over the world to find the crossroads.…The blues is a metaphor for hard times, and if anyone has had hard times, it's surely been the folks of the Mississippi Delta."
While You're There
• Cat Head Delta Blues & Folk Art Inc.: Books, music, and artwork by Mississippi artists, including the gasoline can guitars made by "Super Chikan." 252 Delta Avenue, (662) 624-5992 or www.cathead.biz.
• The Big Pink Guesthouse: The Pepto-colored inn served as an ice-cream parlor in its past life. (662) 645-1815 or www.bigpinkguesthouse.com/. Rates: $100-$125.