Birmingham: Savor Unexpected Flavors

When you think of Birmingham eats, your mind likely jumps to barbecue or meat-and-three plates, but surprisingly enough, this Southern city boasts a few French restaurants. Most of these are fun, funky, and even lively spots.

Chez Fonfon
This bistro in the Five Points South area sits next to its chef/owner's esteemed, Highlands Bar and Grill. At Chez Fonfon, Frank Stitt created an exciting, slightly casual place for festive French food and drink. Begin with a glass of Vouvray, Beaujolais, or Côtes du Rhône and an appetizer of grilled red sweet peppers with olives, capers, and goat cheese melted on toasted bread squares.

For the main course, I enjoyed trout with brown butter, capers, lemon, haricots verts (tender, slender green beans), and new potatoes. The best part of their steamed mussels dish is the traditional accompanying pommes frites (French fries) standing in a tumbler alongside a dip of homemade mayonnaise and Dijon mustard. The menu offers a cheese course with a "taste of three," but I was brought four--all from France. Ask the waiter to rank them from mildest to strongest, and taste in that order. For a sweet finish, I tried that evening's pastry sampler: an éclair, a Paris-Brest (ring-shaped pastry) filled with peach marmalade, and a profiterole (cream puff) cradling praline cream. They don't take reservations; it's crowded, especially on weekends; and it's loud even if it's not packed. But the food and setting are worth it. 2007 11th Avenue South; (205) 939-3221. Entrées: $7.95-$17.95.

Chez Lulu
This funky, cozy cafe is brightly painted inside and filled with kitschy items such as old-fashioned Christmas lights and zany lamps. You have to smile, even before you taste the food. Wine is inexpensive and served in juice glasses. There's no pretense here. Bread comes from the popular Continental Bakery next door, and of the appetizer spreads, the olive tapenade is the best. On a cool fall evening, warm up with La Doba à la Nissarda (Daube à la Niçoise--tender beef that's been long simmered with vegetables and red wine) and served with wild mushrooms as well as toasted bread for sopping. Desserts--such as thin, crisp pear-almond tart and a rich tart of swirled Belgian chocolates--also come from the bakery. 1911 Cahaba Road, English Village; (205) 870-7011. Dinner entrées: $6.95-$12.95.

Rue de Provence Pâtisserie Et Bistro
I love the way they put "pâtisserie" first; I mostly look forward to perusing the pastry case and choosing dessert. Generally a lunch spot (open for dinner Thursday through Saturday only--which I haven't tried and is much more expensive), this is a cheerful space with a high ceiling and colorful murals that make you feel like you're dining in a sunny French street scene. Lunch on salade niçoise, generous with fresh bluefin tuna, or much heavier fare such as a puff pastry overflowing with béchamel sauce, ham, chicken, mushrooms, and green olives alongside a creamily dressed romaine salad. Finish with a chocolate or lemon tart and a cup of rich coffee. 2838 Culver Road, Mountain Brook Village, (205) 870-4904. Lunch entrées: $7.95-$9.50.

One More To Try
Daniel George isn't truly a French restaurant, but it does offer several French appetizers worth your while. Chicken Confit Timbale has a base of grilled bread and a cylinder of chicken confit--all topped with a "son-in-law egg" (a deep-fried egg that's crispy outside and runny inside). Coarse-grained mustard and tangy cornichons accompany. The steamed mussels here--done in a white wine and basil broth--outshine those at Chez Fonfon, if you can do without the pommes frites. And a zippy rémoulade sauce graces a generous ring of fried oysters with shaved cucumber and oven-dried tomato salad in the center. Dessert brings a smile as well. 2837 Culver Road, Mountain Brook Village; (205) 871-3266. Dinner entrées: $19-$25.

A NOTE TO OUR READERS: 
"Birmingham: Savor Unexpected Flavors" is from the November 2002 issue of Southern Living. Because prices, dates, and other specifics are subject to change, please check all information to make sure it's still current before making your travel plans.