A visit to Beaufort isn't complete without wandering around The Point, a dozen blocks of historic residences that have taken center stage in such movies as The Big Chill and The Prince of Tides. Range on foot or with a guided walking tour such as the Spirit of Old Beaufort ($12.50 adults; [843] 525-0459). To see The Point as well as other historic landmarks by carriage, choose from Carolina Buggy Tours ($14.50 adults, $7 ages 6-12; [843]525-1300) or Southurn Rose ($14.50 adults, $7 ages 5-12; [843] 524-2900).

Make time to ramble about on your own, and step into the churchyard at the tabby-walled St. Helena's Episcopal, established in 1712. There, junipers, sycamores, and sculpted myrtle branches watch over graves dating to the Revolutionary War. Inside, the nautically inspired altar was carved by sailors long ago.

One of the easiest and most enjoyable ways to get out on the water is with Capt. Dick's River Tours ($60 for up to six passengers; [843] 524-4422 or [843] 812-2804). A local English teacher named Richard Goodenough pilots a canopied pontoon boat in the sound. Dolphins follow his jaunts while he explains the cycle of sea life and its dependence on tidal waters.

Plan another day to drive over to St. Helena Island, where WhatsinStore, a fun gifts and furnishings emporium, fills a former sea island cotton exchange building. We think their selection of straw beach bags is the best we've encountered. Go across the street to Red Piano Too Art Gallery, a showroom featuring Lowcountry folk art. Then spend at least an hour at The Penn Center's York W. Bailey Museum, which is dedicated to celebrating the native Gullahs.

Another 10 minutes farther out, the Sea Island Parkway leads you to Hunting Island State Park, which provides 4 miles of beach as well as an extensive maritime forest and marsh. The climb up the 167 steps of its 1873 lighthouse costs 50 cents, but it's worth it. This the only historical lighthouse in South Carolina still open to the public.

Where To Eat
Beaufort serves up tasty renditions of Lowcountry favorites in locally owned restaurants, where most menus focus on seafood.

We always run out to The Shrimp Shack on St. Helena Island for the decadent Shrimpburger (deep-fried chopped shrimp cakes on a bun; $4.25) with sweet potato fingers. It's a tradition with locals and visitors alike. You'll not only rub elbows with moms lunching with kids, but you'll also see tourists on the way to the Harbor or Fripp Island vacation homes.

The 11th Street Dockside Restaurant is worth the drive to neighboring Port Royal. Ask for a table with a view of the sunset and the shrimpboats moored along Battery Creek. Order the fried green tomatoes ($3.95), fresh oysters ($9.95-$14.95), or Grouper Daufuskie ($17.95),baked grouper topped with lump crab and a light cream sauce.

In downtown Beaufort, sit on the patio at the Firehouse Books & Espresso Bar on Craven Street. The servers recommend tasty wrap sandwiches as well as the latest great read.