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Beaufort by the Water
Explore the Lowcountry charms of this South Carolina Village.
By Annette Thompson/photography J. Savage Gibson
   
   
  The Castle--a home whose construction was interrupted by the Civil War--still serves as a private residence.
   
  Beaufort's central area offers more than three blocks of intriguing shops and cafes.
   
   
  Stroll the riverside park to catch a sea breeze and watch the boats come in.

Like most folks, I visit Beaufort to delight in its Lowcountry pleasures. Similar to its big sisters, Charleston to the north and Savannah to the south, the town entertains with memorable shopping, dining, and lodging amid handsome historic neighborhoods. But I also come to Beaufort because it embraces the distinctive charms of the coast. Unlike when I'm in those two larger bookend cities, I'm always aware of the water here, and I can almost always spot it wherever I roam. That's not too surprising, as Beaufort County has 64 sizable islands and some 2,000 tinier ones. It's a place where freshwater meets salt and where creeks, marshes, and rivers meld with sunshine, tides, and sea breezes.

Because of the winding nature of the delta, roads rarely run in straight lines; instead they follow the capricious paths of water. Driving here is not unlike taking a boat ride. Overhead, terns, ospreys, and herons course through April's blue skies, while twisted oaks spiked with furry resurrection ferns and dripping with moss shade narrow streets.

One of the best times to explore this watery land is in the springtime, when the blooms of loquats and mock oranges infuse the air with a fruity scent.

Where To Go and What To Do
Reserve most of a day to explore the shops along Bay and Carteret Street. You'll discover beautiful home accents at Grace & Glory; BellaVista Antiques, Home and Garden; The Gallery; The Craftseller; and Lulu Burgess. Look to The Oyster Cay Collection for period pieces from the Near and Far East. You can find treasures for less than $300 or invest in heirlooms surpassing $1,000.

Bay Street Outfitters supplies you with gear for outdoor activities. If you're looking for a fishing or kayaking guide, stop here first. Be sure not to miss the nostalgic Fordham Hardware on the corner of Bay and Carteret; it hasn't changed much during the past several decades. Rows of shelves stock every imaginable item, from penny nails to weather vanes. Another Beaufort institution, Lipsitz, is a 101-year-old locally owned department and shoe store.

Let loose of the shopping shuffle with a stroll alongside Waterfront Park, where boats creep in with the stunning sunsets.

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