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Louisiana's Hidden Jewel
St. Francisville combines the best of the New South with the flavor of the Old.
By Derick Belden
   
  One of St. Francisville's most beautiful houses, Rosedown Plantation is resplendent, but the gardens are even better.
   
  See the glory of spring at Afton Villa Gardens.
   
  Ride horses along a part of the Old Tunica Trace.

Whether it's for listening to great music, relishing a restful weekend, or exploring the deep-fried history of Louisiana, this sleepy town is worth getting to know. St. Francisville lies just 30 miles north of Baton Rouge but seems far from the hustle and bustle of Louisiana's capital city.

St. Francisville is a crossroads you'd miss if you were moving too fast. In fact, you can easily overlook it on an even slower first pass because it doesn't have the traditional town square. It's said to be the second oldest town in Louisiana. (Natchitoches claims itself the first.) Situated among the first bumps of the Appalachian Mountains and high on a bluff above the Mississippi River, St. Francisville began as a cemetery for a nearby monastery in the 1770s. Through the years, the culture of the town has been flavored as the Spanish and English came and went, cotton planters went boom and bust, and the ever-present and unpredictable Mississippi River ebbed and flowed. The result is a vibrant hodgepodge of people, food, architecture, and activities that you won't find in any other like-size town.

Where To Go and What To Do
St. Francisville is in the heart of plantation country, so you'd be remiss if you didn't visit a few of them. Because the state historic sites are open from 9 to 5 daily and many shops don't open until later, it's a good idea to start at one of the two must-see historic homes, Rosedown or Oakley, and go from there. There are a total of seven homes to tour in the area, but these two have been restored the best and feature the most to see on the grounds.

Rosedown dates back to 1834 and was originally the heart of a nearly 3,500-acre plantation. Make time to take the guided tour; it offers the best glimpse of what life at Rosedown was like. Be sure to walk the grounds. The gardens bloom this time of year with glorious displays of massive azaleas underneath 10-foot camellia bushes. The more ordered flower and parterre gardens are a must stop, as well as the much photographed live oak allée. You may not have 28 acres to cultivate at home, but the many ideas at Rosedown can offer great inspiration for your own garden.

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