"Traditional" isn't exactly the word to describe San Antonio's holiday season. From the moment the sun fades in the evening sky, the River Walk becomes an oasis of color and festivity. That's why this month is the perfect time to visit the South Texas town. Christmas isn't just another holiday here--it's a celebration.

Friday--Revel on the River Walk
Lodging in this city isn't cheap. If you're prepared for extravagance, we recommend La Mansión del Rio Hotel. Located on the River Walk, the hotel lies within walking distance of most attractions and has an old-world charm that makes it well worth the extra money. Rates start around $200 a night; (210) 518-1000, 1-800-292-7300, or www.lamansion.com.

If La Mansión is a little too expensive, we suggest the Beckmann Inn and Carriage House. Though a little farther out of the way, this cozy bed-and-breakfast in the King William Historic District still allows you to enjoy the river. Rates range from $110 to $150;(210) 229-1449, 1-800-945-1449, or www.beckmanninn.com.

Once you've settled in, make a beeline for the River Walk--the best place to take in the festive atmosphere. Bright lights sparkle in the cypress trees, and luminarias light your path. Browse the little shops, and savor the scents drifting from the sidewalk cafes. As the sun sets, take a boat ride (Yanaguana Cruises, $5.25 for adults) to gain a new perspective on this famous landmark.

Now that you've worked up an appetite, treat yourself to a posh meal at Las Canarias restaurant in La Mansión del Rio Hotel. Relish Lone Star creations such as Texas Blue Crab Stuffed Swordfish Tempura ($26). As you dine on the patio, you can hear the lovely sound of boat carolers as they drift by. (Note: Reservations are required.)

For the perfect ending to your first day, head to the nearby Alamo to admire its spectacularly lit 40-foot Christmas tree. Discover other downtown decorations by taking a horse-drawn carriage ride, which starts in front of The Alamo ($25-$65 a couple).