Fruit cups spiced with chili powder at Los Valles Fruits and Foods.

Entry Point: Mi Tierra Café
A festive vibe dominates Mi Tierra--red, white, and green paper decorations, tiny lights, and blankets all swag from the ceiling. Mariachi players sway among the tables. Its location on Market Square guarantees surges of tourists, but locals still pack in too. Because Mi Tierra opened in 1941, it’s had practice perfecting Enchiladas Verdes de Pollo (a green tomatillo sauce and chicken). 218 Produce Row; www.mitierracafe.com or (210) 225-1262.

Dig a Little Deeper: Taco Taco Café and Los Valles Fruits and Foods
Taco Taco Café is totally insider. San Antonio natives cram into this tiny breakfast taco joint daily for the chilaquiles (eggs with tortilla strips, peppers, spices, tomatoes, and cheese). 145 East Hildebrand Avenue; (210) 822-9533. With the spices still on your tongue, cool off with a fruit cup dusted with chili powder from Los Valles Fruits and Foods. Unusually refreshing. 3915 Nogalitos Street; (210) 927-9595.