White sandy beaches--got 'em. Trendy restaurants--check. Art--enough to fill a weekend. Whatever you fancy, St. Petersburg has it. From the laid-back beach scene to the increasingly cosmopolitan downtown, this once sleepy bayside city is transforming itself into a vibrant destination. If you can handle a little heat, come sample the best of the beach and the bay.

Friday--Discover Downtown
Cruise into town in cool clothing and comfy shoes. Downtown is walkable, but even the late afternoons can leave you feeling like a steamed clam. The good news: Summer hotel rates are considerably lower.

The Renaissance Vinoy Resort and Golf Club ([727] 894-1000) offers great views of the Art Deco pier on Tampa Bay, and it's within walking distance of downtown. On the Gulf, The Don CeSar Beach Resort ([727] 360-1881) towers like a giant wedding cake above St. Pete Beach. This month, rates can dip as much as $150 below high-season prices. Rooms start around $139 at the Vinoy and around $149 at The Don CeSar (peak rates can be more than $300 at either). There's also a nice Hampton Inn & Suites ([727] 892-9900) downtown that starts around $149.

Cool off with a dip in the pool, then enjoy a waterfront stroll along Coffee Pot Boulevard. The bay looks lovely in the silvery light of dusk, and you might spot dolphins or manatees.

For a cheap and authentic taste of real Florida, head to Ted Peters Famous Smoked Fish and Co. Mullet, mackerel, salmon, and mahi mahi are smoked for four to six hours over a fire of the state's native red oak. Dinner plates start at $11.50. No shoes? No problem.

If you prefer white tablecloths and candlelight, try Redwoods. The menu changes frequently, but we loved the grilled escolar with chorizo-mussel broth and lobster oil ($21).

After dinner, join the crowd at BayWalk, an outdoor plaza with restaurants, bars, a movie theater, and shops that stay open late.