Extensive patterned gardens create swaths of colorful accents at Tryon Palace, the beautifully restored 18th-century mansion in the midst of downtown.

Tucked Between Two Rivers--New Bern

What's neat about New Bern? This little burg may be one of the prettiest and friendliest places on the coast of North Carolina. The vibrant, revitalized downtown district sits perched on a triangle of land bordered by two rivers, the Neuse and the Trent. Visitors will also fall in love with New Bern's beautifully renovated old homes, some dating back to the 1700s. Most of the shopping, dining, and cultural action centers around the town's riverfront--actually two riverfronts--along Front and South Front Streets. The best part? People can park their cars and walk to most places and never be farther than a stone's throw from the water.

If you actually want to get out on the water, On the Wind Sailing Cruises offers day and evening charters from Northwest Creek Marina at Fairfield Harbor. Two-hour day cruises along the Neuse River cost $20 per person, and sunset cruises are $25.

Cool breezes and great views come with a visit to Union Point Park, located right where the two rivers meet. Another good way to see the town is by taking a trolley ride with New Bern Tours, which offers 90-minute guided trips through the historic district ($12 adults, $6 ages 12 and under).

New Bern's number one attraction has to be Tryon Palace Historic Sites & Gardens. (New Bern, the second-oldest town in the state, served as North Carolina's first colonial capital.) An imposing Georgian brick mansion, rebuilt to be an exact replica of the original structure, overlooks 14 acres of patterned and themed gardens. Costumed interpreters bring the past into present-day liveliness.

Left: Cow Café serves up a great banana split.

After seeing Tryon Palace, visitors can cool off with a banana split ($4.25) at Cow Café. Or you can enjoy lunch at Marina Sweets Café & Deli. Lunch items here include such deliciously clever sandwiches as the Historically BLT ($4.95), which comes served as a pita wrap instead of on the usual sliced bread. New Bern abounds with good places for dinner. The Chelsea Restaurant, set in a 1912 building on the corner of Middle and Broad Streets, offers such entrées as Sonoma--shrimp and bacon over pasta with a blue cheese cream sauce ($14.95).

Among the town's other notable places is The Birthplace of Pepsi-Cola. Pepsi was concocted here in 1898 by pharmacist Caleb Bradham. Today, manager Larry Cook serves up Pepsi, 7 Up, and Mountain Dew from a fountainhead tapper.

Lodging choices in town include the Sheraton New Bern Hotel and Marina and the Comfort Suites Riverfront Park. Both offer easy access to downtown and views of New Bern's remarkable rivers.

This article is from the June 2005 issue of Southern Living. Because prices, dates, and other specifics are subject to change, please check all information to make sure it's still current before making your travel plans.