At his cooking school on Waters Avenue, chef Joe Randall invites guests to learn about and sample favorite regional dishes.

What To See and Do
Savannah's founding father, James Oglethorpe, had the good sense to arrange the houses and public buildings around a series of public squares. Today, 21 of the original 24 remain. A number of companies offer tours, ideal for a first visit. After that, explore the squares at your own pace.

To learn more about local cuisine, attend a demonstration at Chef Joe Randall's Cooking School ($45-$65; [912] 303-0409). Visitors garner recipes, history, and helpful hints on how to make local favorites at home. Best of all, guests get "a little South in your mouth" when chef Joe gets through cooking.

Among the cultural treasures in the historic district reside some of the country's most beautiful churches. None is more compelling than the First African Baptist Church on Franklin Square. Built by slaves in 1859, it was once a stop on the Underground Railroad. Church elders will show you the holes drilled in the floor to funnel fresh air to escaped slaves hiding in the tunnels below. Call (912) 233-6597 to schedule a free tour.

Baby Cakes, made from scratch and topped with homemade buttercream frosting, draw customers to Back In The Day Bakery. MY TOP TIPS To avoid a parking fine, purchase a Visitor DayPass for $8 from the Parking Services office at 100 East Bryan Street, the Visitors Center at 301 Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd., or participating hotels and inns. Savannah's minor league baseball team is called the Sand Gnats, a tongue-in-cheek tribute to the local pests. This mascot seems benign--until you encounter the flying menace. In other words, pack the bug spray. The enchanting Spanish moss dangling from the trees helps give Savannah its unique character, but don't be tempted to harvest a sample to take home. Chiggers love this rootless relative of the pineapple too.

This article is from the June 2005 issue of Southern Living. Because prices, dates, and other specifics are subject to change, please check all information to make sure it's still current before making your travel plans.