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Web Exclusive:
Apalachicola Oysters: What's So Special?
In 2006 noted food writer John T. Edge administered an oral history
study about Apalachicola oysters and oyster fishermen with the Southern
Foodways Alliance, out of The University of Mississippi. "The oysters
there are among the best in the nation," he said. "They are fat,
abundant, rich, and lusty. The oysters are both sweet and salty, and
it's the interplay of the freshwater of the river and the salt water
from the Gulf, forming an estuary, that makes the difference and sustains
these vibrant oysters. It's about the confluence of that river and the
Gulf of Mexico. The uniqueness of that combination, along with the
timeless appeal of the fishing village of Apalachicola, is hard to match
anywhere in the country. There are a number of restaurants across the
country that only serve Apalachicola oysters." For more about the oysters and fishermen of Apalachicola, visit www.southernfoodways.com under the heading of "Oral
History." | |
Morning comes gently to Apalachicola. Oyster boats and shrimpboats
begin their daily pilgrimages into the seafood-rich bay as the sun rises
on the Northwest Florida coast. The lights twinkle on in this fishing
village, its residents ready for another day in unspoiled paradise. If
you ever wondered if such a place still exists, yes, old Florida lives
here. A lone blinking yellow light directs the downtown traffic. Come
and stay awhile in this wonderful, walkable, watery hamlet. Try the pace
on for size.
Bay or Beach
When you arrive in Apalachicola, options both old and new offer a lovely
stay. The grande dame in town--the Gibson Inn, built in 1907--lures you
with her welcoming Victorian-style porches, rocking chairs, and 30
comfortable rooms. Rates start at $95. Ask for Room 101 if you want a
quiet, private spot. It's located away from the well-known restaurant on
one end of the building. But do take advantage of the first-rate dining
on the premises. Avenue Sea boasts chef David Carrier, who hails from
The French Laundry, a famed establishment in Napa Valley. Be sure to
make reservations; he's that popular and that good.
Or try out the new kid on the banks: Water Street Hotel & Marina has 30
one- and two-bedroom riverfront suites, which feature washers and
dryers, kitchens, screened porches, and more. Rates begin at $149.
If you'd rather dig your toes into the sand each morning, another option
awaits less than 9 miles away on St. George Island. This barrier
island--28 miles long--offers a large variety of beach houses, cottages,
and condos. And the price is really right during February. Rent a
three-bedroom Gulf-front beach house for two nights for only $300.
Dining for Compliments
Avenue Sea serves up the wonderful Apalachicola oysters--not shucked
until they're ordered--as well as Gulf shrimp and blackened redfish.
For a perfect view, enjoy dinner on the second floor of the Owl Cafe,
overlooking the waterfront. Sample the fried oysters, along with the
seafood bisque, if available. Add a kick to your seafood paella with the
Venezuelan flavors of Tamara's Cafe Floridita. The owners claim that
love and magic
are in the sauce. A laid-back experience awaits at Papa
Joe's Oyster Bar & Grill at Scipio Creek Marina. You just might find
some of the best fried oysters of the whole trip here, perfectly
battered and meltingly good. After your lunch, take a guided boat tour,
and learn the source of all this bounty.
