I stand on the dock at South Seas Island Resort, gazing
across the water at what looks like a shimmering island covered with
snowy sand. Then I watch it fly away in a flurry of feathers.
"Those are all white pelicans," resort naturalist Vince McGrath says
with a smile, speaking of the birds that winter here from mid-October
through mid-April. "The largest of them stand 60 inches tall with
10-foot wingspans."
Magic like that happens all day long on Sanibel and Captiva. These
two enchanted islands are so exotic and beautiful, I almost expect to
see a customs office when I cross the bridge from the mainland. It feels
like the gateway to a foreign country, but you don't need a passport to
visit this wave-washed paradise.
"You'll never see a high-rise on Sanibel--God willing," Vince says.
Franchises fade away too. There's only one chain hotel--a Holiday Inn.
The rest of the lodging is homegrown. Rainbows put up the only golden
arches you'll see.
above: Peak shelling season runs from May through September; it also is good in winter months after storm fronts blow through.
More than 400 types wash ashore.
