A NOTE TO OUR READERS:
"Explore the South's Own High Country" is from the January 2008 issue of Southern Living.
Because prices, dates, and other specifics are subject to change, please check all
information to make sure it's still current before making your travel plans.
"Tucked away in the Allegheny Mountains of West Virginia, we've
discovered the soul of Snowshoe Mountain."
We're doing our best to keep the wine in our plastic cups on the ride to
the Backcountry Hut. This takes some doing in our off-road limo: an old
military ambulance lurching over the slopes on army-tank treads. Twenty
minutes into the woods, our tank shudders to a stop in front of a rustic
lodge glowing bright between heavy-limbed trees. Silence. We pause in
the gathering snow, lit blue by an early moon. These frosted woods are
ours tonight.
Inside the hut, we rub our hands above a potbellied stove as a chef in
ski pants preps a dinner of steaks and salmon. In the morning, we'll
make snowballs, forge fresh tracks, and light a bonfire. But tonight we
toss tales across a wood table well into the night. Tucked away in the
Allegheny Mountains of West Virginia, we've discovered the soul of
Snowshoe Mountain.
Y'all-Style Slopes
You know you're on Southern slopes when
you zip down a black-diamond run called Moonshine. Snowshoe is way more
"y'all" than "dude." Yet it's filled with the requisite perks you'd
expect to find out West. This is the kind of place where you can chow
down at Foxfire Grille on Way Uptown Mac 'n Cheese (secret ingredients:
lobster and crabmeat). Where resort management cancels all meetings on
powder days. Where Ember, the fancy new bistro in town, serves
fresh-caught fish flown overnight from Hawaii; Champagne in a can
(Francis Ford Coppola's latest drink); and artisan cotton candy.
It's also the kind of place where people help others. We heard it from
Southern Living reader Denise Ott Land of Norfolk, Virginia. On
her second trip here, her family got stuck while driving in a blizzard.
The first carload of locals pulled over. The local family fed and
watered the Lands while fixing their car. "They treated us like family,"
Denise said. And they wouldn't take a dime.
Mountaintop Village
I could take the free shuttles around
this resort and never bother with parking. But why? Skiing is quicker.
The heart of this "inverted" resort, the Village crests the nearly
mile-high summit of Snowshoe Mountain. Shops, restaurants, and other fun
stuff sit at the top, not on the bottom like most resorts. I can walk
out of my condo, strap on my skis, zip down a run, and then ride a chair
lift almost anywhere.
The other perk of inverted resorts? Summit sunsets. At dusk, the famed
alpenglow paints the Allegheneys pink, and the bustle in the Village
grows still as all eyes pause to drink in the sight.
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Food Finds
Follow off-duty staffers to the best meals. We
tailed them to Foxfire Grille, where the upscale mac and cheese was
delish and our tabletop s'mores drew admirers. Splurge at Ember (left),
a trendy bistro with inventive food, Fed-Ex fish specials, and sushi
even a snob could love. Warm up at Starbucks with free wireless Internet
and an indoor-outdoor fireplace.
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