A Shining Example
Cream-colored limestone walls gleam in the afternoon sun at San José, but remnants of paintings
at Mission Concepción show some of the vivid colors that once adorned the churches.
"Concepción is the best preserved and least altered of the missions," says Rosalind. Next year
marks the 250th anniversary of its dedication.
Pews are decorated with pink ribbons and flowers for a wedding yet to come, but on this late
afternoon, it's a place of timeless tranquillity. I linger to watch candles flicker on soft walls
in the fading light of a church built before America was a nation.
Outposts on the Trail
Early on Sunday morning, I drive out to see Mission San Juan and Mission Espada. At the two rural
sites, I get a sense of how remote they once were. In 1836, Jim Bowie and James Fannin took refuge
here not long before the fight at The Alamo was lost.
Under missionary supervision, the Coahuiltecans grew crops in rich fields along the river. They
built dams and waterways called acequias for irrigation. I stop at Espada Aqueduct to watch water
splash through a stone trough. Constructed in 1745, it is the oldest Spanish-built aqueduct still
in operation in the United States.
When I slip inside the church at Espada this morning, it's standing room only. About 90
parishioners sit listening to a priest recite the Mass in Spanish. Little girls with red bows in
their hair sit beside their mothers. Young men stand politely at the back.
The words are as strange to me as they were to the Coahuiltecans. But I understand the message.
In the busy rush of the holiday season, I'm thankful for the trail that led me here.
For more information: Contact Park Headquarters at San Antonio Mission National Historical Park,
2202 Roosevelt Avenue, San Antonio, TX 78210-4919; (210) 534-8833 or www.nps.gov/saan.
Trail Tips
- Where To Start: Mission Concepción heads the trail, but it's a good idea to stop first at the main visitors center, located in the 3300 block of Roosevelt Avenue at Mission San José, about 4 miles from downtown. Pick up a trail map, and take time to view an informative 23-minute film to get an overview of the Coahuiltecans and the missions. Join a guided tour. (Don't miss Alfred Schwab's entertaining tour if you're there on a Monday.)
- Hours: Grounds and visitors centers are open 9 a.m.-5 p.m. daily, except Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year's Days.
- Food and Lodging: Warm up with chipotle chicken soup, spicy enchiladas, and other Tex-Mex specialties at Rosario's, located near the beginning of the trail at 910 South Alamo; (210) 223-1806. AmeriSuites ([210] 227-6854) and a new Holiday Inn Express Hotel & Suites ([210] 354-1333) offer affordable lodging near the start of the trail downtown.
- Mariachi Mass: San José's musical Mass held at noon on Sunday welcomes visitors. Get there early if you want a seat. For more information call (210) 922-0543. Tourists are asked not to intrude on other regular services. Visitors are usually welcome, if it isn't crowded and you're respectful.
