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Discover Gullah Country
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  Built by the Gullah people in the 1740s out of tabby, a liming process that uses oyster shells, the Chapel of Ease majestically haunts St. Helena Island. Now in ruins, it served as the first Episcopal church for plantation owners in the area.

A few miles up the road along U.S. 17, another art is being made--sweetgrass baskets. At a stand in front of Mount Pleasant's Heritage Presbyterian Church, sweetgrass basket maker Vera Manigault skillfully continues the handed-down art form, one that is still practiced in Senegal. Vera works alongside her mother, Ethel, who has continued the craft in the same spot for more than 50 years. "I put myself into each basket," Vera says, wrapping a piece of bulrush around her right hand. "Baby Moses' basket was made out of bulrush," she adds sweetly.

Those baskets speak of the beauty and strength of Gullah culture--a culture as tightly interwoven into the Deep South as the palmetto used to tie Vera's sweetgrass. Threatened by increasing land development on the Sea Islands, the Gullah remain undaunted. They cling fast to their traditions, and their sacred connection to the shore gives them a resilience that awes us all.

This article is from the March 2002 issue of Southern Living. Because prices, dates, and other specifics are subject to change, please check all information to make sure it's still current before making your travel plans.

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