MORE SOUTHERN CLASSICS Apple Stack Cake: This
traditional Appalachian dessert has all but disappeared from households
and restaurant menus. But we found it among the homemade delights at
Early Girl Eatery ([828] 259-9292) in Asheville, North Carolina. Call
ahead to be sure it's on the daily dessert menu. Banana Pudding: Almost every barbecue joint worth its sauce serves some
version of this regional favorite, still we located a truly exceptional
recipe at Galax Smokehouse ([276] 236-1000) in southwest Virginia.
Co-owner Ron Passmore says he uses three ordinary yet nontraditional
ingredients to make his creamy pudding. Beignets: At Café du
Monde (1-800-772-2927) in New Orleans, doughnuts dusted with powdered
sugar and dunked in chicory coffee remain a classic. At Washington's
D.C. Coast ([202] 216-5988), New Orleans native David Guas serves his
beignets with a petite cup of Café au Lait Crème Brûlée. At nearby
Acadiana ([202] 408-8848), they're accompanied by coffee-laced chocolate
panna cotta. Fried Pies: Roadside signs point the way to
Original Fried Pies, located in a Sinclair gas station at Exit 51 off
I-35 near Davis, Oklahoma. Try the fried pecan or chocolate cream. Call
ahead ([580] 369-7830), and they'll have fresh, hot pies waiting for
you.
Key Lime Pie: The Blond Giraffe Key Lime Pie Factory ([305]293-6667) makes us smile with their chocolate-covered Key lime pie on a
stick. Blue Heaven ([305] 296-8666) gets an A for their tangy pie topped
with waves of golden brown meringue. Derby-Pie: This
Kentucky dessert was created 50 years ago at the Melrose Inn in
Prospect, Kentucky. Today, the walnut-and-chocolate chip pie is a
trademarked product of Kern's Kitchen in Louisville ([502] 499-0285). (Derby-Pie® is a registered trademark of Kern's Kitchen.)
above and left: Owner Charlotte Freeborn and baker Doris Hicks make everything from scratch at Fredericksburg Pie Company, including the Italian meringue.
ARTICLE BY Cassandra M. Vanhooser; Photography Art Meripol