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Diverse Dining in Asheville
This lively, arts-friendly city is fast becoming one of the region's best food destinations.
By Donna Florio
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Diners at Zambra share plates of Spanish cheeses and paella. |
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The Breakfast Salad at Sunny Point Cafe & Bakery is scrumptious.
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Mixing it Up
Asheville's blend of Biltmore gentility and Birkenstock casualness produces a terrific food
scene. There are exceptional fine dining restaurants, ethnic eateries, homey cafes, and more
vegetarian venues than you can shake an organic carrot stick at. Seems there's a restaurant
for every taste.
Softly lit, stylish Zambra serves tapas (Spanish-style appetizers) with flair. Pairing diverse
ingredients results in a Spain-meets-the South melding of flavors that are subtle, not hot. The
fabulous plate of Spanish cheeses, for example, includes a state fair-worthy spiced-fruit chutney.
Shellfish-laden Paella Zambra, however, is pure Spain and purely delicious. Order several items
to share--they're generous enough for two. 85 Walnut Street; (828) 232-1060. Small plates: $5-$12.
Sunny Point Cafe & Bakery
I made a pilgrimage to this place in west Asheville to try The Breakfast Salad. The dish comes
piled high with organic field greens dressed with Maple Dijon Vinaigrette and topped with an egg,
maple-black pepper bacon, tomatoes, and roasted potatoes. The fluffy homemade biscuit on the side
makes a good thing even better. Having all your favorite breakfast items served as a salad
assuages any guilt. Brilliant. Other great choices are the organic Cornmeal Hotcakes and huevos
rancheros. 626 Haywood Road; (828) 252-0055. Entrées: $4-$7.
Flying Frog Cafe
Chef Vijay Shastri blends his Indian-German heritage and love of French food into a flavorful
stew at his family's restaurant. The soup du jour was simple and exquisite--a meltingly tender,
sweet cornmeal dumpling submerged in chicken broth seasoned with chili, garlic, and cilantro. The
special of Scorpionfish On Blue Potato Pancake showcases the unusual and delicious fish, while
Lamb Korma Zaffrani offers tender lamb chunks in a rich but not overpowering saffron-tomato-curry
cream sauce. This dish is comfort itself. 1 Battery Park Avenue; (828) 254-9411. Entrées: $14-$29.
Corner Kitchen
Even standard dishes enjoy a touch of grace here. At lunch, Cool Grilled Chicken Salad is
lavender-marinated, while red onion confit and Havarti cheese spark a roast beef sandwich. They
offer a seasonal soup and a soup of the day. Don't pass up the Black Mountain Cheesecake for
dessert. 3 Boston Way, Historic Biltmore Village; (828) 274-2439. Lunch entrées: $6-$10.
The Market Place
For 25 years, chef and owner Mark Rosenstein has been delighting diners with inventive dishes
made from fresh, local ingredients and changing the menu seasonally. I loved Poached Pear Salad
With Stilton cheese, Curried Walnuts, Watercress, and Port Wine Vinaigrette, but a heavy hand
with the orange zest in Shrimp Bisque With Orange Zest struck a sour note. The exceptional
stuffed Oven Roasted Carolina Trout finds a harmonious home on a bed of Potato Galette with
Sage Butter, while Wood Grilled Tenderloin and Roesti Potatoes are surrounded by a beefy red
wine (bordelaise) sauce. Wine pairings are suggested for each item. When you order, your server
will ask if you'd like a dessert soufflé--say yes. 20 Wall Street; (828) 252-4162. Dinner
entrées: $18-$30.
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