Ask 10 people in North Alabama where to find the best fried catfish, and expect 10 different responses. Whether filleted or whole, this Southern icon holds a sacred place in the hearts of locals.

In my hunt through the upper region of the state, I found two main types of batter, three different slaw bases, and enough variation on the all-important hush puppy to keep my doggies quiet for a long, long time. After picking my favorites, I realized they’re all in cities that dot U.S. 72 like belt notches. Incidentally, my research may have created a few new holes in my own belt.

We’ll See You in Hollywood
Finding Hollywood is not as easy as it sounds. County 213 sneaks up on you when you’re zipping along U.S. 72 between Huntsville and Chattanooga. Even after turning off, you may need to rely on a little directional intuition to find Mud Creek Bar-B-Que.

But anyone you pass can tell you how to find it. Of course, they might call it Carver’s or Leck’s. A local institution since Lester “Leck” Carver opened it in 1946, the restaurant is now run by his grandsons. While the name changed, the family recipes have remained the same. Large windows offer the only thing here as good as the catfish: views of peaceful Mud Creek.

Mud Creek Bar-B-Que: 804 County 213, Hollywood, AL; (256) 259-2493. Batter: light, cornmeal-based. Slaw: The sweet, mayonnaise-based White Slaw goes best with catfish, but they also offer a mustard-based Yellow Slaw. Hush puppies: buttery. Plate prices: $6.10-$7.80, fillets; $5.25-$6.50, whole.