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Chilaquiles, fresh fruit and juices, and a Central American breakfast
are great food finds at Las Manitas.
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In the Fast Lane
Road food is a necessity. Good road
food, however, is not the easiest thing to find. But next time you're on
I-35 in the Lone Star State, make the trip more enjoyable for everyone
by trying one of these fully satisfying pit stops.
I started in Austin, with an outstanding breakfast at Las Manitas
Avenue Cafe, run by Cynthia and Lidia Pérez. The Pérez sisters began by
selling authentic Mexican tacos from a cart in 1979 (across from UT
Austin) as well as delivering them all around town. Now they have their
own building space in the heart of the city. Begin with a glass of
fresh-squeezed watermelon or cantaloupe juice while trying to decide
between the Chilaquiles Rojos or Chilaquiles Verdes (crispy corn
tortilla strips with cheese and red or green sauce) or one of the daily
specials. I had enchiladas in an earthy, rich Mexican chocolate mole.
Even the sides--the creamiest refried beans and warm, fragrant
tortillas--are worth saving room for. There's a lot of shuffling of
chairs and tables to accommodate all the eager diners, so don't linger
too long over the choices--you can't go wrong. 211 Congress Avenue, Austin; (512) 472-9357. Breakfast: $3-$6; lunch:$4-$8.
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Clem Mikeska's Bar-B-Q
If you're near Temple and you feel
that familiar Southern urge for barbecue, stop in at Clem Mikeska's. (If
you're in a real hurry, there's also a drive-through.)
As opposed to most Texas barbecue, which is brisket, Clem grills a
sirloin cut of beef. Prize-winning homemade sausage (with just a hint of
pepper and garlic) and dry-rubbed ribs served with homemade breads and
sauces are enough to keep the whole family in a peaceful food coma as
you drive to your desired destination. 1217 South 57th Street, Temple; (254) 778-5481. Sandwiches: $2.20-$3.50; plates: $5.50-$6.95.
Doyle Phillips Steakhouse
From the interstate near Temple
you can see the huge sign announcing this conveniently located roadside
steak house, which has been family operated since 1958. If it's
Thursday, stop in for the famous chicken and dumplings ($5.25). Otherwise, try the hand-shaped chicken-fried steak served hot
and crisp with white country gravy. The 8-ounce New York strip is also a
bargain ($9.95). All main courses are served with a house
salad, two fresh vegetables, rolls, cornbread, and cobbler. The service
is sweet and Southern, which, along with the straightforward home cooking, makes for a pleasant roadside stop. 4011 South General Bruce Drive, Temple; (254) 778-9951. Lunch entrées: $5.50-$8.95; dinner entrées: $9.95-$27.95.
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The Range at the Barton House
In Salado, after you stop at
the Wildfire Ranch Arena for a look at the rodeo sports, drive another
mile to the main street of this quaint town. For a relaxing and more
elegant lunch on the weekend or for dinner Wednesday through Sunday,
splurge at The Range at the Barton House. Owners Dave and Katie Hermann
(both trained at The Culinary Institute of America) are a young couple
whose regular customers drive I-35 from as far away as Austin. Nibble on
a bowl of hot crispy house fries while Dave plates a perfectly tender
roast quail with creamy polenta or grilled pork rib chop with an
innovative watermelon salsa. The menu also offers a variety of homemade
pizzas and salads. A warm volcano cake of Valrhona chocolate is worth
spending a few lingering moments over before getting back on the road.
101 North Main Street, Salado; (254) 947-3828. Burgers: $8; entrées: $15.95-$32.95.
This article is from the
March 2004 issue of Southern Living. Because prices, dates, and
other specifics are subject to change, please check all information to
make sure it's still current before making your travel plans.