By Warner McGowin
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J. B.'s makes its crab cakes from crabs caught by one of the restaurant's employees.
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Crabs, Kitsch, and Local Color
The sign outside J. B.'s Fish Camp & Seafood Restaurant in New Smyrna Beach, Florida, proclaims "Southern Seafood With an Attitude." That's exactly what you'll find at this out-of-the-way spot on the Indian River. Let's start with the attitude--a mix of irreverent kitsch and local pride. From the stuffed deer wearing Santa hats to snapshots of locals' fishing trips, J. B.'s boasts a laid-back atmosphere. The oyster-shell driveway, boat launch, and weigh-in platform for fishing tournaments add just enough old-Florida authenticity. It's the food that matters most, though, and J. B.'s delivers. The restaurant, sandwiched between the river on one side and the Atlantic Ocean across the street, catches its own blue crabs and serves them steaming hot in buckets. Crispy fried shrimp comes with basic fries, coleslaw, and cocktail sauce that's heavy on the horseradish--just the right amount of kick so you don't have to add your own ($7.35). Oyster stew ($6) strikes a perfect balance between sweet and spicy, with kernels of corn, cream, parsley, paprika, and small, flavorful oysters. It's rich, so save room for the Key lime pie, the real star here. The graham cracker crust is topped with a 2-inch layer of white Key lime cream that, without the distraction of meringue, pops with tart sweetness. A funky, local inspiration colors everything at J. B.'s, and makes it an end-of-the-road destination that's worth the trip.
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above, left: What's the first clue that J. B.'s serves serious food in New Smyrna Beach, Florida? The butcher paper spread across every tabletop. ; above, right: Dinner on the patio at J. B.'s Fish Camp & Seafood Restaurant offers a slice of Florida heaven--the perfect sunset, fresh crabs, oysters, and blackened grouper.
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J. B.'s Fish Camp & Seafood Restaurant: 859 Pompano Avenue, New Smyrna Beach, FL 32169; (386) 427-5747.
