In Texas, barbecue shrines serve as sanctuary and site of ceremony. At The Salt Lick in Driftwood, about 20 miles southwest of Austin, couples who meet in the restaurant sometimes return to wed. On a mellow afternoon last April, underneath tall pecan trees beside a creek, Matthew Ronshausen married Alisha Bronikowsky in a smoke-scented ceremony.

In Huntsville, diners gather near New Zion Missionary Baptist Church Barbecue where parishioners cook and serve brisket, chicken, and ribs. Some devotees call it the "Church of the Immaculate Barbeque."