Menus of 4 to 10 courses bring an impressive parade of precise plates that rival some of Charleston's best. A dainty eggshell cradles garlicky, buttery custard and (surprisingly) Georgia caviar. Soup is a ceremony: The liquid is poured tableside over diced butternut squash and a single wild boar tortellini. Asian flavors delight here and there. Dessert was much prettier than it tasted, but I'd try again. 125 Parsons Road, Summerville; (843) 875-2600 or www.woodlandsinn.com. Dinner, 4-10 courses: $64 - $120; rooms: $295-$425.

Middleton Place
I'd toured the gardens and house of this plantation on Charleston's edge before and lunched on fried chicken. But dinner and the hidden inn eluded me, so I returned. Built in 1985, the inn's architecture (a modern, boxy nod to nature) feels a bit like a fancy tree house, so rooms from $200-plus seem a little lofty. But dinner is a bargain and an unpretentious treat. I adored the moonlit stroll from my room in the woods. On the menu, the Old South reigns beautifully: a pile of crispy, fluffy fried oysters with lively rémoulade sauce; creamy, not-too-thick she-crab soup; and excellent shrimp and grits. Leave room for fabulous strawberry shortcake on a big, sweet biscuit. Wine is very limited. 4290 Ashley River Road, Charleston; (843) 556-0500, 1-800-543-4774, or www.middletonplace.org. Dinner entrées: $20-$27; rooms: $199-$275.