Yep, I know the four spots I recommended in the May 2001 issue are not downtown with all the touristy fun. You might not want to stray so far from Beale Street, Redbird baseball, and the Peabody ducks for a bite to eat.

If you still want a good meal without the fuss and cost of Chez Philippe, try McEwen's on Monroe. You can walk there from many hotels, and it's casual with an artsy edge.

Many Memphians are sweet on Chef Jennifer Dickerson (who moved here from KoTo), but you have to go at dinner to catch her cooking. Not knowing that, I went at lunch and had a satisfactory meal, but fear I missed what's truly special here.

Tender, orange-glazed smoked quail came with perfectly cooked green beans and cheese grits (which the waiter billed several times as corn pudding). Frequently preferring a glass of white followed by a glass of red, I applaud the choice of more than 40 interesting wines by the glass. 122 Monroe; (901) 527-7085. Dinner entrées: $13-$19; lunch entrées: $5-$7.

Rinaldo Grisanti & Sons: 2855 Poplar; (901) 323-0007. Entrées: $9.50-$28