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In Search of Key Lime Pie
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  If you've never seen a real Key lime, you'll find them at Robert Is Here Fruit Stand in Florida City.
   
  Of the take-out recipes we tried, Blond Giraffe's surpassed the rest.

Robert Is Here Fruit Stand: Now a father of four teenagers, Robert Moehling started this produce-peddling business at just 7 years old. (Ask him for the cute story behind its name.) Oldest daughter Victoria whips up Key lime pies--with meringue--in her summer months off. The rest of the year, the pie supply is meringueless and less reliable. The day we visited, no one had baked any. (This is laid-back Florida, after all.) So we made do with a Key lime milk shake, and it made us pretty happy. 19200 SW. 344th Street (off U.S. 1), Florida City; (305) 246-1592.

Blond Giraffe: I eyed this take-out shop's perfect wedges in plastic containers doubtfully. All others like this had failed me. But one bite, and I silently apologized. This recipe from Brazilians Roberto Madeira and Tania Beguinati (actually, from Tania's grandmother) teams rich "cookie dough" crust with light, zingy custard and piped meringue. They've mechanized the process somewhat, but I saw workers grating lime and piping meringue by hand. (By the way, this was the top pick for the Sudduths from Nashville.) 1209 Truman Avenue and 629 Duval Street, Key West; 1-888-432-6283 or www.blondgiraffe.com.

Little Palm Island: Few can afford to overnight on this dreamy island, but anyone is welcome to take the romantic, quick boat trip (free) for lunch or dinner there. This luxurious hideaway is surely where Ginger and the Howells envisioned landing on Gilligan's Island. The view, mood, service, and fare lull you right out of reality. And pastry chef Dawn Runge's tall Key lime pie with crunchy cashew crust and ethereal orange whipped cream will make you pray to be eternally stranded. U.S. 1, MM 28.5 Oceanside, Little Torch Key; (305) 872-2524 or 1-800-343-8567.

The Deli: The homey pie topped with unabashed, softly weeping meringue at this 52-year-old restaurant melted my heart. The founder, John Bernreuter, gave me a smile and change from an espresso cup next to his cash register. His now-grown granddaughter Patty has worked here with the rest of the family since age 9, and she makes three to nine of the disks daily. I adore her recipe: a flaky pastry crust; a filling so cold, so thick, so puckery; and a meringue as sturdy and sweet and pure as this family tradition. 531 Truman Avenue, Key West; (305) 294-1464.

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