Blueberry-chipotle ribs--blasphemy or bliss? It’s hard to imagine the traditional Southern favorite tweaked to such fruity/spicy terms, yet the taste is terrific. Tom Montgomery’s attempt in the we-do-them-our -way South has turned into triumph at the restaurant called 12 Bones Smokehouse. “Fruit is a natural pairing with pork on any level,” he explains reasonably. “You can use orange or blueberry or peach. We were running pumpkin for a while--a fantastic blend.” The restaurant also uses local beers in the kitchen and on the menu. “We’ll trade brewers a rack of ribs for beer and make a sauce,” says Sabra Kelley, Tom’s wife and co-owner.

She also points out a menu of sides so divine a vegetarian can eat hearty--especially the jalapeño cheese grits, corn pudding, and mashed sweet potatoes. There’s diversity in the sauces too (tomato, jalapeño, mustard, and vinegar); though, honestly, the baby back ribs need no adornment. Lines to get in form early and run deep into the parking lot here. There’s no doubt why. 5 Riverside Drive; www.12bones.com or (828) 253-4499. Hours: 11 a.m.-4 p.m. Monday-Friday.

Must-Taste Dish
Sabra and Tom’s popular blueberry-chipotle ribs won the “Best Bites Challenge” in a recent contest on ABC-TV’s Good Morning America. Southerners had a great showing: Finalists included Yesterday Café in Rutledge, Georgia, and Aunt Jenny’s Catfish Restaurant in Ocean Springs, Mississippi.