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Food Finds • Raleigh, North Carolina
Taste global flavors in Raleigh's An, Jibarra Modern Mexican Tequila Lounge, Frazier's, and Vivace
By Morgan Murphy / Photography John O'Hagan
   
  Okay, so black-eyed peas don't sound like a good dessert--but just one taste of ˘an's Delta Rice Pudding and you'll be a convert.
   
  The unbelievably creamy flan is just a sample of the creative cuisine at Jibarra, an upscale Mexican restaurant. Don't pass it up if it's available.

A NOTE TO OUR READERS:
"Food Finds: Raleigh, North Carolina" is from the June 2007 issue of Southern Living. Because prices, dates, and other specifics are subject to change, please check all information to make sure it's still current before making your travel plans.

TOP-RATED: AN
If I said this restaurant served catfish and bacon, collards cooked with pork fat, and rice pudding, you'd think I was talking about some Deep South joint, right? Well, I am. Deep South Vietnam, that is. The American South and Vietnam share some culinary flavors, and you must visit this fabulous spot just outside of Raleigh to give them a try. Take the Miso and Maple Glazed Sea Bass. A meunièrery sauce gets a kick with soy, maple syrup, and garlic. Go out on a limb, and try the Delta Rice Pudding for dessert. This ain't the Mississippi Delta's version, though it does contain another Southern staple: black-eyed peas. The dish surprises with sweet hints of vanilla and coconut. 2800 Renaissance Park Place; www.ancuisines.com or (919) 677-9229. Lunch entrées: $8-$14; dinner entrées: $14-$65.

Jibarra Modern Mexican Tequila Lounge
I began with a dish called Cochinita Pibil, which, despite its hard-to-pronounce name, remains the most delicious appetizer I've tried in six months. Marinated, shredded pork shares a plate with gorgeous marinated red onions (which look pink) and dabs of habanero salsa. The entire affair is placed on a banana leaf to add creative color to the dish. Pescado a la Veracruzana, a rich entrée of snapper in a tomato sauce packed with tangy olives, reminded me of dishes I ate in Spain while on Navy duty. For dessert, order the flan if it's on the menu. Most restaurants ruin flan. It's either too gelatinous, watery, or bitter, or it simply tastes like upside-down crème brûlée. Jibarra does it just right--creamy, firm, and delicious. 7420 Six Forks Road; www.jibarra.net or (919) 844-6330. Dinner entrées: $16-$41.

LOCAL FAVORITE: Frazier's
While not a new restaurant, Frazier's has found new life in chef David Zoller. Flickering candlelight and a large wine list make this the ideal romantic date spot. On my visit, I was decadent and ordered the peach, pecan, and mustard green foie gras with a Sauternes (a sweet French dessert wine). 2418 Hillsborough Street; www.fraziersbistro.com or (919) 828-6699. Dinner entrées: $8-$23.

Vivace
The cool vibe and textures of this Italian restaurant attract an urbane crowd. Fortunately, the food on the seasonal menu matches the hype. The crisp calamari, strong papa al pomodoro soup (tomato and basil), and outstanding short rib raviolini that I sampled on my visit should all be on any diner's short list. 4209 Lassiter Mill Road at North Hills; www.vivaceraleigh.com or (919) 787-7747. Dinner entrées: $10-$24.

For More Info.
Editors' City Guide to Louisville, KY

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