Recipes:
1. Beef Brisket With Texas Barbecue Sauce
2. Texas Barbecue Sauce
3. Smoked Brisket
4. Oven-Baked Brisket

Most of the South considers barbecue to be all about pork, but in the Lone Star State, barbecue means one thing--brisket. If you've never tried this Southwest favorite, you're missing a real treat.

Brisket comes from the chest of the cow, so it requires long, slow cooking to tenderize the meat. Although store-bought briskets in Texas are very large, those found in most grocery stores range in weight from 3 to 7 pounds. I purchase mine at a wholesale club, where they range from 7 to 11 pounds. If the brisket is untrimmed, ask your butcher to trim off the excess fat, leaving about 1/8 inch fat on the meat.

Two things fundamental to great barbecue are the right temperature and smoke. Sounds easy, but these points are often misunderstood. Barbecue must be cooked for long periods of time at a low temperature, generally between 225° and 250°. Anything hotter, and you're grilling. This low, slow, and indirect-heat cooking method allows the meat to tenderize, while the smoke gives the meat flavor (most is absorbed during the first two to three hours). Properly smoked meats have a pinkish ring, called a "smoke ring," on the outer 1/2 inch. It is a mark of consistency.

Several options exist for fueling your smoker. I prefer all-natural lump charcoal (such as Royal Oak), but regular all-natural charcoal briquets (such as Kingsford) will also work. Many competitive barbecue teams use regular charcoal briquets because of their predictability.

Before adding charcoal, wood, or meat, the smoker has to be fired and brought up to temperature. The amount of charcoal or logs you start out with will depend on the size of your smoker, its heat retention, and the weather. Remember, you'll need to add charcoal and/or logs during cooking to maintain the right temperature. Your smoker should have a thermometer built in that gives you an exact temperature reading. If it doesn't, purchase one.

Only untreated, seasoned hardwood should be used. For pork, I like apple wood mixed with hickory, which gives the meat a hint of fruitiness. Texans use whole logs of mesquite or hickory for brisket. Pecan wood is also preferred. Try them all, and decide which one you like best. You'll be able to detect subtle differences in flavor. Soak chips and chunks overnight in water to keep them from burning too fast.

If you have a gas grill with two burners, you can still cook barbecue. Light one, and set the meat above the other one. Put your smoking chips in a cast-iron smoker box, and place the box on top of the heat source.

Troy Black hails from Athens, Alabama, where the pork is pulled, the slaw runs clear with vinegar, and his passion for eastern Carolina-style barbecue was born. His wife complains about the smoke that lingers on his clothes but never turns down the 'cue.

Love barbecue? You'll find dozens of delicious recipes in our Bar-B-Que special issue, on newsstands now!