Grinning from ear to ear, young Kendel Godfrey dumps his catch out onto the weathered pier. The crab scuttles sideways, claws tapping like the tattoo of fingernails on a tabletop. The crab is fast, but Kendel's older brother, Michael, is faster. Just before the creature dives back into the Patuxent River, the net whooshes down, and it's caught. Again.

I'm crabbing with the Godfrey family in Solomons, Maryland. Parents Stephen and Chrystal, along with their children--Michael, Katrina, Kendel, and Adriel--are here to catch dinner, as well as enjoy a family outing. For me, the day brings back memories of another place.

I caught my first blue crab when I was 10 years old, and it scared me out of my wits. Hoping to hook a fish, I dropped a line into the opaque waters of Pensacola Bay off the coast of Florida. The alien-like creature I pulled up sprouted beady eyes and fierce claws, and it almost took off the tip of my finger.

The fish weren't biting that day, but crabs congregated around the pier like conventioneers at a buffet. We caught several dozen, but having no idea we could eat these things, we gave them to another family who asked if they could have them. It wasn't until years later, seated before a mound of steamed crabs in a restaurant on the Eastern Shore of Maryland, that I realized what we'd missed.

Crabbing is not only a way to catch a delicious meal, but it's also a perfect family activity. It requires very little equipment or skill, is relatively inexpensive, and is something everyone can do. A chicken neck, a small weight attached to a long piece of twine, and a net to nab the crab are all you really need. If you want to get fancy, you can use a drop net (a mesh basket that collapses when laid on a flat surface). In 8 of our 11 Southern coastal states, you don't even need a license. Only Florida, Georgia, and Texas require fishing permits for ages 16 and older.

The scientific name for the blue crab (Callinectes sapidus) means "beautiful, savory swimmer." Crabs live in bays, bayous, and marshes all along the Southern coast. The best places to look for them are around piers, jetties, and bridges. The warmer the water, the more active they become, so peak time for crabbing stretches from June to late September.

This June day is perfect for crabbing. The tide is just beginning to fall, which brings the crabs out of the grass along the shore and into the water that laps around the pier pilings. As soon as Kendel's crab is recaptured and a few more are added to the cooler, Katrina demonstrates the art of picking up the ugly crustaceans. The trick, she says, is to approach the crab from the back, away from the pinching claws. Place your thumbs over the back legs, which look like paddles; slip your forefingers underneath the crab's belly; and then hold on tight.

The day's biggest challenge, though, turns out to be keeping Adriel, the youngest and most excited family member, from toppling into the water with the crabs. (To cook your own catch, see our recipe for Steamed Blue Crabs on page 200 of the June 2002 issue of Southern Living.)

Tell us about your favorite crabbing sites: Do you have a spot to catch blue crabs or a crab-catching tip? Write to Blue Crab Editor, Southern Living, P.O. Box 523, Birmingham, AL 35201.

• Check the tide. The best time to go crabbing is early morning or late afternoon on a moving tide.
• One of the best baits is a chicken neck. If it has been sitting out a while, so much the better. Crabs are attracted to smell.
• Add a small weight to your hand line to help the bait sink to the bottom.
• Be patient. It may take a while for crabs to smell and locate your bait.
• All nets are not created equal. Get one that is flat on top instead of curved and that has a long handle.
• When you feel the tug of a crab on your line, pull it up slowly, then scoop it with a net while it's still beneath the surface of the water.
• Keep only those crabs that measure at least 5 inches across (5 ¼ inches in Maryland). It's also illegal to keep egg-bearing females (you'll see the spongelike egg sac on the underbody).
• Keep your crabs cool and moist, preferably in a ventilated container covered by a wet towel (not in a bucket of water, because they'll suffocate as soon as the oxygen is used up).

This article is from the June 2002 issue of Southern Living. Because prices, dates, and other specifics are subject to change, please check all information to make sure it's still current before making your travel plans.