White sandy beaches--got 'em. Trendy restaurants--check. Art--enough to fill a weekend. Whatever you fancy, St. Petersburg has it. From the laid-back beach scene to the increasingly cosmopolitan downtown, this once sleepy bayside city is transforming itself into a vibrant destination. If you can handle a little heat, come sample the best of the beach and the bay.

Friday--Discover Downtown
Cruise into town in cool clothing and comfy shoes. Downtown is walkable, but even the late afternoons can leave you feeling like a steamed clam. The good news: Summer hotel rates are considerably lower.

The Renaissance Vinoy Resort and Golf Club ([727] 894-1000) offers great views of the Art Deco pier on Tampa Bay, and it's within walking distance of downtown. On the Gulf, The Don CeSar Beach Resort ([727] 360-1881) towers like a giant wedding cake above St. Pete Beach. This month, rates can dip as much as $150 below high-season prices. Rooms start around $139 at the Vinoy and around $149 at The Don CeSar (peak rates can be more than $300 at either). There's also a nice Hampton Inn & Suites ([727] 892-9900) downtown that starts around $149.

Cool off with a dip in the pool, then enjoy a waterfront stroll along Coffee Pot Boulevard. The bay looks lovely in the silvery light of dusk, and you might spot dolphins or manatees.

For a cheap and authentic taste of real Florida, head to Ted Peters Famous Smoked Fish and Co. Mullet, mackerel, salmon, and mahi mahi are smoked for four to six hours over a fire of the state's native red oak. Dinner plates start at $11.50. No shoes? No problem.

If you prefer white tablecloths and candlelight, try Redwoods. The menu changes frequently, but we loved the grilled escolar with chorizo-mussel broth and lobster oil ($21).

After dinner, join the crowd at BayWalk, an outdoor plaza with restaurants, bars, a movie theater, and shops that stay open late.

Saturday--Waterside Fun
Head to the beach for breakfast at a Florida classic--The Seahorse, a 67-year-old greasy spoon that's a Pass-a-Grille landmark. Settle into the sand here, or check out Fort DeSoto Park, a family beach with a bike path, dog park, and historic site.

By noon you'll be feeling hot and hungry. Head downtown for tropical fare at Tangelo's Grille. Try the Cuban sandwich with black beans and rice ($5.95).

Spend the afternoon exploring the shops along Central Avenue and the art galleries on Beach Drive. Cherie's Eklektika specializes in irresistible kitsch, from mermaid paraphernalia to windup sushi toys. In addition to the paintings at Trinity Gallery, you may find an original photograph of Marilyn Monroe, a piece of estate jewelry, or a $10 photograph by an unknown artist. Visit one of the city's five museums; our favorite is the Salvador Dalí Museum.

So what's with those women and men in black? They're students at the Aveda Institute St. Petersburg, the best place in town for a splurge on the cheap: a $40 facial, which includes a scalp treatment and a foot massage. You must sign a waiver, because the students are not licensed, but my $11 haircut looked fine. Call for appointments; (727) 820-3199.

Breeze back to the beach to watch the sun set at the Hurricane Seafood Restaurant. Order a fruity frozen umbrella drink, and listen to a guy sing Jimmy Buffett songs. Not your scene? Watch the moon rise at Moon Under Water, a cozy downtown pub that serves a crisp Strongbow Cider.

Dine downtown at Café Alma, where you'll find a great combination of sultry ambience and trendy Mediterranean-inspired international dishes. Try the tender sautéed calamari ($9.50). Beg--yes, beg--for the chef to make his chilled melon soup ($6.50), a seasonal special that's the coolest thing since gazpacho.

Before retiring, relax to live jazz at The Garden, where you might just catch some dueling trombones.

Sunday--Linger Over Brunch
Even if you don't stay at the Vinoy, make reservations for its lavish brunch. At $38.95 a person, it's a splurge, but listen: paella with lobster, roast duck, crab, and a dessert bar with too many blessings to count. Go ahead, raise that glass of Champagne (or fresh-squeezed Florida orange juice). You're worth it.

For more information

Contact the St. Petersburg/Clearwater Area Convention & Visitors Bureau, (727) 464-7200, toll-free 1-877-352-3224, or www.floridasbeach.com.

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YOUR CHEAT SHEEET 1. Renaissance Vinoy Resort and Golf Club: (727) 894-1000 2. The Don CeSar Beach Resort: (727) 360-1881 3. Hampton Inn & Suites: (727) 892-9900 4. Ted Peters Famous Smoked Fish and Co.: (727) 381-7931 5. Redwoods: (727) 896-5118 6. The Seahorse: (727) 360-1734 7. Fort DeSoto Park: www.fortdesoto.com 8. Tangelo's Grille: (727) 894-1695 9. Cherie's Eklektika: (727) 821-4336 10. Trinity Gallery: (727) 821-1803 11. Salvador Dalí Museum: (727) 823-3767 12. Aveda Institute St. Petersburg: (727) 820-3199 13. Hurricane Seafood Restaurant: (727) 360-9558 14. Moon Under Water: (727) 896-6160 15. Café Alma: (727) 502-5002 16. The Garden: (727) 896-3800

This article is from the August 2005 issue of Southern Living. Because prices, dates, and other specifics are subject to change, please check all information to make sure it's still current before making your travel plans.