TEXAS
Beautiful Roses
Put roses to work in your garden. Provide
enclosure with 4- to 6-foot hedges of old-fashioned Southern favorites
such as 'Old Blush,' 'Mrs. B.R. Cant,' 'Buff Beauty,' 'Cramoisi
Supérieur,' or 'Mutabilis.' For lower-growing hedges and specimens, try
'The Fairy,' 'Marie Pavie,' or 'La Marne.' Create garden pictures with
climbing roses such as Lady Banks's, 'Cl. Cécile Brunner,' 'Cl. Cramoisi
Supérieur,' or 'Peggy Martin.' Select a sunny location for your roses,
and prepare the bed by using two parts soil to one part peat, composted
pine bark, or your own compost. Incorporate 4 to 5 pounds of cottonseed
meal or alfalfa meal into the top 8 to 10 inches of soil as the organic
material. Beds and individual planting holes can be prepared ahead of
time. You can purchase these roses by mail-order from The Antique Rose
Emporium (www.antiqueroseemporium.com). Check your local nursery too.
Panhandle
Fruit--It is the ideal time to plant fruit
trees. Japanese persimmons such as 'Fuyu' are low-maintenance additions
to the landscape. Pomegranates and figs are also easily grown and
require little attention after being established. 'Celeste' and 'Texas
Everbearing' are the two most popular figs for our region.
Invest in trees--A few well-chosen trees can make a huge
difference in the appearance and value of a property. Among the best
trees for our region are bur oak, Chinese pistache, Chinese elm (Ulmus
parvifolia), cedar elm (Ulmus crassifolia), and bald cypress.
Central, West, and South
Pretty blooms--Plant
perennials now for spring and summer blooms. Yarrows (white, lavender,
red, or yellow), purple coneflowers, daylilies, crinums, 'Texas Gold'
columbines, and ox-eye daisies are all dependable sources for years of
color in our region.
South
Cool-weather annuals--Start 'Bibb,'
'Buttercrunch,' and other lettuces from seeds or transplants for early
harvest. Arugula and cilantro can also be set out now. Be sure to keep
the young seedlings well watered during dry periods.
Entire State
Pruning--Trim dormant trees and shrubs
now.
Begin by removing dead or weak growth. Then remove limbs that are
rubbing against each other. Maintain the natural form of the plant
unless you are working with a hedge or topiary. Hedges should be
slightly broader at their bases to allow better light distribution to
the lower part of the plants. Crepe myrtles are often pruned poorly.
Remove seedheads by cutting stems back about a foot, thin out twiggy
growth from the inside areas, and select three to five of the healthiest
trunks to remain.
North and East
Perennial care--Trim frost-damaged
perennials to within a few inches of the ground. Aromatic asters
(Aster oblongifolius), Mexican mint marigolds, and Mexican bush
sage will look much neater in the garden if cut back now.
Time To Prune
Just like birddogs and husbands, shade trees
need training. Only in this case, you can't use a rolled-up newspaper.
Training trees means removing, thinning, or shortening selected
branches.
For most deciduous shade trees, winter is a great time to prune because
with the leaves off, you can easily see which branches need work. (Don't
prune maples and birches now, though, or they'll "bleed" sap. Do it in
summer.)
Click to see a chart of the four tools you'll need to prune.