Installation
Putting in turf for a smaller lawn is like putting in turf for a regular one, just easier. Instead of truckloads of turf, all you need are the design and the materials for a border. Begin by marking off the area for your new lawn with stakes, powdered lime, or a garden hose. If you're going to replace the existing grass, solarize the area by putting down black plastic for a few weeks, or spray a selective herbicide, such as Roundup. Once the grass is dead, till the area you marked including space for the border. Add an inch of compost to the soil, and rake the area smooth. Put the border material in place using sand or cement filler. The ideal height of the border will be the height of the grass when it's ready to be mowed.

The grass can be seeded, plugged, or laid as sod. This will depend on what kind of grass you're using and how long you're willing to wait for the perfect lawn. Regardless of the method, the final step is to water. Grass needs to be moist for optimal growth at this stage. Wait to mow or fertilize until the grass has thoroughly filled in.

Maintenance

• Deep, infrequent watering is critical to encourage deep rooting and reduce the risk of the lawn dying during drought. All grass requires a certain amount of supplemental fertilizer; the quantity depends on the type you choose and the region where you live. Mowing can actually provide some nutrient requirements for grass; just leave the cut blades to break down naturally in the soil. Mowing is also the best defense against weeds. By regularly cutting the grass, you don't give weeds a chance to develop seeds and spread across your lawn. If this is not sufficient, try a pre-emergence herbicide to kill weeds before they germinate.
• Heavy clay soil is great for holding on to water and nutrients, but a healthy lawn also requires air for proper growth. Many grasses will become compacted, causing a lawn to suffocate. Aerating the soil each spring is a simple solution. A machine called a core aerator lifts a 3-inch plug out of the turf every foot or so and deposits it on the lawn. These holes allow air and nutrients to penetrate to the turf's root zone for healthy new growth. A core aerator can be rented at a garden-supply store, and using it takes about the same amount of time as mowing the lawn.
• Liming the soil is another important maintenance job for lawns in the South in which soil is not alkaline. Heavy rains and decomposing organic matter, such as pine straw and pine bark, tend to create acid conditions. Adding lime once a year will bring the pH of the soil closer to neutral and make it more favorable for turf growth. Buy a bag of pelletized lime or gypsum at a garden-supply store, and sprinkle it on the lawn. The application rate ranges from 2 to 6 pounds per 100 square feet, depending on your soil type.

Kinds of Grass

• There are two important considerations when selecting grass: Where do you live, and do you have sun or shade?
• The vast majority of Southerners should use warm-season grasses, such as Bermuda, centipede, or Zoysia. These types thrive in heat and are dormant in winter. For those of you in the Upper and Middle South, try an evergreen type of fescue, such as 'Rebel' or 'Kentucky 31.' However, be aware that evergreen types do not grow when temperatures reach 80 degrees.
• The other factor to consider when selecting grass is whether you have sun or shade in your yard. Most grasses naturally grow better in sun. However, there are some types that can get by with much less than others. If your lawn receives less than eight hours of sun a day, you should probably consider either centipede or Zoysia.
• Many plants that start out small can quickly grow and overwhelm the space where they were planted. But you can avoid this situation; read "Don't Block the Windows" on page 72 of the April 2003 issue of Southern Living.