Smoke rising over the marsh near Jim and Weezie Gibson's home means one thing to their neighbors--Jim's cooking a whole pig. The Beaufort, South Carolina, couple has been entertaining this way for at least 30 years. "We usually do about one pig roast a year," Jim says in his lush Lowcountry drawl. "The kids started having them for their friends at Christmas, and we've continued."

Jim has friends who regularly assist him, as well as others who drop by. He finds the camaraderie developed during these events sweeter than smoked pork.

"As soon as you start cooking, someone will show up," he says. "Everyone likes to visit and tell stories. And everyone always enjoys being around the fire--you know how Southerners are." They also are notoriously opinionated about how they like their barbecue. "It's like religion," Jim says with a laugh.

A whole hog cooks slowly, one succulent drip at a time, leaving plenty of time for the pit watchers to make hash. This stewlike dish, served over rice, is a favorite South Carolina accompaniment to smoked pork. Traditional versions include the pigs' liver and head meat, but liver hash is rarely seen anymore. Jim's recipe, made with a mixture of ground pork and beef, has a chili-like consistency. "When you're making hash," Jim advises, "it's a great time to have company--no one wants to cut up that many onions by themselves!" Because the mixture needs stirring to prevent it from sticking to the pot, Jim has a standing rule for his barbecue buddies: "Don't pass the pot without stirring it."