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| Satisfy your cravings with Chocolate Toffee Torte at Palena in Washington, D.C. |
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Although I appreciate a good sugar high, no one has ever accused me of having a sweet tooth because, quite frankly, I can’t resist the cheese platter. An aged Comté and a good Taleggio--along with an honest-crusted bread--will always suit me just fine at the end of a meal. However, my recent quest for desserts in four cities may have changed all that.
Chicago
The thyme ice cream bursts with the taste of Provence at Roland Liccioni’s Le Lan. It accompanies the ubiquitous Chocolate Moölleux (warm lava cake), but it’s spiced up with a bit of Vietnamese cinnamon. Hazelnuts appear everywhere on menus these days, but here they are whipped into a soufflé that’s gently parted at the table and filled with a creamy hazelnut anglaise. I loved everything at Le Lan, including a fizzy lemon grass soda.
Washington, D.C.
Komi restaurant, owned by chef Johnny Monis, is a welcome Dupont-area newcomer in our capital. If you can only choose one dessert, go for pastry chef Robert Underwood’s Lemon Polenta Cupcake. This is no ordinary last bite. Citrus adds moisture and tang against the tenderness of surprisingly light medium-grain polenta. Fresh basil gelato and orange blossom syrup round out the flavors.
Chocolate Toffee Torte at Palena, with the glossiest warm chocolate sauce, is simply delicious and wholly satisfying. The creations of Ann Amernick, an unsung hero of sugar, complement chef Frank Ruta’s no-fail menu.
Aspen
The Snickers-influenced Chocolate Fantasy at Olives Aspen is all about flavor and texture. Pastry chef Michael Lasek was inspired by his favorite candy bar. Layers of salty caramel and dark Callebaut chocolate ganache, chocolate sabayon, and the crunch of hazelnuts all come together in a rich confection. Also try the do-it-yourself s’mores—homemade marshmallows, graham crackers, and chocolate-hazelnut smear are brought to the table along with a mini campfire.
Seattle
Coconut Cream Pie at Dahlia Lounge is what all self-respecting pies should aspire to be. What makes it so dreamy is the lightness of cream and coconut piled high on a flaky crust. White chocolate shavings add an extra bit of sweetness. Want more? Whole pies are available next door at the bakery.
Several thousand miles and more than 50 desserts later, I have new respect for these chefs who have mastered their craft. I may still go for the salty picholine olive, but I definitely now crave just one bite of rich caramel or a zip of fresh lemon transformed in the sweet hands of pastry chefs.