Friday

Enjoy the thrill of the ride. Don’t let the quiet moments pass you by.
By the end of the week, Jacob is catching his own waves. I still count on Doug to choose waves for me, but I’m more confident about getting up. I’m also better at falling. (Falling well is a skill and that is true in all aspects of life.) 

When we make it past the waves, I revel in the beauty of the moment. Here there are no worries, just the dip and swell of the ocean, the occasional flock of birds flying low over the water, the sight of a fishing boat in the hazy distance. Jacob, Michael, and I lie on our boards and float in easy silence until Doug calls out, laughing, “Where are you guys going?” And then, one by one, we paddle back to where he stands, wait for a turn, and ride the waves in once more.

Photo: On the last day of Surf Camp, director Mark McCann shows off his headstand. (Don't try this during your first week at camp.)

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